Deli Man - B

Deli owner Ziggy Gruber

Rated PG-13, 91 minutes
Wes's Grade: B

Documentary "Deli Man" provides a fresh look at Jewish culture and food

If you've ever eaten in a delicatessen, you know that food is only part of the story, not to mention the culture and camaraderie that flows from it (essentially a diner, but the food is better). The warm, relaxed new documentary "Deli Man" tells the many stories behind the rich flavor and history of the delicatessen, which is a fixture in the Jewish culture. In Houston, Texas, third-generation deli man Ziggy Gruber has arguably built what some think is one of the finest delicatessens in the U.S., named Kenny and Ziggy's. His story - augmented by the stories of iconic urban delis such as Katz's, 2nd Avenue Deli, Nate 'n Al, Carnegie, and the Stage - embodies a tradition indelibly linked to its savory, nostalgic foods. Directed and written by Erik Greenberg Anjou, "Deli Man" is an entertaining, gregarious documentary that brings to light some of the untold stories of one of the more fascinating asepcts Jewish culture, yet shows that you can also make a documentary about just anything. Gruber's contemporary story gets the most footage, and while Gruber himself is a fun character (among other things, he gets acupuncture because of the stress of running a deli), it's not the most interesting, given all the delicatessens that came before him. There is some fun, generous helpings of commentary from historians as well as celebrities, including Jerry Stiller, Fyvush Finkel and Larry King that add a little spice to the proceedings, while also giving insight into how delicatessens are run (and interestingly, more than once, they caution against investing in them but then maybe that is the very reason to do so). "Deli Man" is a fresh look at an age-old institution as well as Jewish culture, though it may have limited appeal to those outside of the Jewish community and/or foodies. It's worth a look, though you may not want to go on an empty stomach, as it may make you very hungry seeing some of the yummy food.